Gribbleh Part 1

Recently Skywatcher, myself and some of the other lads have been playing the classic Call of Cthulhu RPG. Doing it old school, with pen, paper, chips and soda. Just like Sandy Petersen intended.
Being a miniatures gamer, I can't help wanting to bring pewter to the table. I've had several of the ancient RAFM minis, most have been sitting, unassembled and unpainted in my bits box for years, dare I say decades.. Some, like the one piece Moonbeast, are fantastic and a joy to build and paint. Others, not only require a good deal of assembly, but the molds are so old and worn that the effort to put them together is a bit daunting.
What follows is my record of repairing, building, and detailing a Dark Young:

There were many problems, shortshots, voids, gaps, ill fitting joints, etc. Even when you consider that its an old cast of an old mold of an old sculpt, its still in bad shape. This is the first assembly, after cleaning mold lines with files, clearing flash with a blade, and gluing with CA. Luckily all the joints were large enough that pinning wasn't required.

Here you can see the main problem, the joint between the lower body and the main tentacle section was either miscast or the molds have warped over the years. 

The joint between the two sections of tentacles also had large spaces. The socket for the third leg was acceptable for an older model, but since I planned on making everything seamless, it was on the list.

While I'm on the subject, I thought I would share some of the tools and tips I use. The above are Color Shapers, rubber tipped tools for pushing clay and putty around. Learned about them in a sculpting seminar given by Matt Gubser, A man far too good looking for the miniatures hobby. Color Shapers leave putty with that smooth professional finish that can't be had from most tools.

These are some of my other handy tools. A basic putty blade, ball tipped stylus, and a chopstick with a pin in one end and a tiny blade on the other. I made the tiny blade by smashing the end of a paper clip in a pair of pliers then filing an edge.

Another important tool, Jewelry Pliers are normally used for making jump rings. I use them to bend arms, legs, tentacles without damaging the miniature. The smooth jaws don't leave tool marks and you can use them like a pipe bender to make wider curves. I used them to bend the Dark Young's tentacles into a more gribbly, grabbly chaos.

An example of repairing a damaged mini.

Another tip from Matt Gubser, when mixing epoxy putty, you can ensure the two parts are evenly mixed by twisting them together.

 Twisting makes the "sausage" longer, so just fold it in half and keep twisting.

Once you've twisted and folded a few times, then you can smash it together and knead the swirly, psychedelic glob until its a uniform, verdant green.

I didn't bother taking mid-sculpt pics, because the other-worldly anatomy of the Dark Young lends itself to free-form design. 

This pic shows the swoops you can get from the Color Shapers, the wrinkles from the putty blades, and the pock marks from the stylus and pin.

Part 2 will be basing tips and techniques, followed by priming and painting.

Tutorial: Wood Texturing on Plastic Card

A Guide to creating wood texture using plasticard.

I've found using plasticard is a good alternative to balsa wood for building. Large panels of it can be created, and overall strength is higher than gluing wood together. Below is a guide I created based on how I used it to construct a Mordheim Plague Cart for a Carnival of Chaos warband recently. Technique can be done on a small scale to create wood flooring for bases or smaller projects.

Step 1: I measured off a square of 3mm plastic (maybe 4 inch square) and cut it out. (This particular piece of plastic is from a display sign made of PVC) Then measured and marked off parallel lines with a 4mm spacing for the individual planks.

Step 2: I use a utility blade for cutting. Be sure to keep the blade sharp. A dull knife is not your friend. I pre-scored each parallel plank line with the blade, then used a pointed jewelers file to widen the gap between each plank.

Step 3: Here I have begun the scoring between the individual planks. When making the cross cuts to end each plank, be sure to focus on keeping them as random as possible. You don't want them all to line up. So varying the lengths helps alittle.

Step 4: Here you see I am laying in the wood texture of the individual planks. I push the file straight in to create some random knot holes. You can see a few to the left before the texture is done. Then I drag the tip of the file down each plank to create each texture line. Go from top to bottom, and keep it moving around. Trees are living and naturally have variation. Push hard enough to score the plastic, but not deeper than the lines between the planks.

Step 5: Here are a few final pieces constructed. If you look closely, you'll notice 2 small nail holes at the ends of each plank. I used a very small drill bit to drill shallow holes to simulate the nail holes. Hope this helps.

Build a Better Hill

3T-Studios doesn't like ugly hills, and neither do we. Check out his guide to correct this problem plaguing our gaming tables. Here's a hint, step one is toss our current hill terrain....

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